Sunday, March 11, 2012

Bat Cave

Nola, Ditty and I took my boat across Bahia Honda to a spot where we were to meet a guide to take us up a small river to a bat cave on Isla Bastimentos.  He asserted that my boat was far too big for the shallow river especially during low tide.

We agreed to the $20 apiece fee and set off toward the east end of the bay, which is the bay in front of my house.  Between the mangroves a narrow slit appeared.  We puttered up stream in the large wooden dugout powered by a 15 horsepower outboard.  There was little to see but muddy water and mangroves, although we did spot a small caiman.

The water appeared to be about three feet deep, more than sufficient to accommodate my boat.  After a while our guide cut off the engine and paddled stating that we were more likely to encounter wildlife.  We saw nothing.   Eventually we arrived at a dock, donned rubber boots and trekked through shallow mud arriving at a shack.  Little Ngobe Indians wandered around in their underwear, throwing a sneaker in the air and a very portly woman collected nine dollars from our guide for our admission.  Our guide told us that the fee was $4 apiece but with a tour there is a discount.  I have seen many such fee operations, not sanctioned by any legal entity and with no justification as the fee collectors prey on the ignorance of the visitors but I let it slide.

We spotted some hummingbirds, a few sloths, an orange poison arrow frog, some huge spiders, just a regular jungle walk.

We were informed by a departing group that the cave was filled with borrachos, drunks.  A short while later we arrived at the small entrance.  Wading through 8" to 10" water we soon found a crack in the ceiling writhing in bat animation.  Further on we saw large fruit bats and smaller bats of some unknown species hanging from the walls.  The cave is also known to harbor vampire bats.   Bats fluttered around, in the small passage very near us.  Despite having been informed that it was possible to progress much further there seemed little point.  Small passageways, the cave was bereft of interesting formations, so it was just bats and murky water.

On our return trip we were passed by a boat containing the drunks that were in the cave.  The boat was larger than mine and drew more water.  I guess there is no point in saying, "sure your boat will work fine and you'll save $60."  The ugly Americans gave us a little light hearted heckling and the boat proceeded noisily down the river with much laughter and merriment and no doubt scurrying wildlife.

As you have undoubtably gathered, I was little impressed by the trip, which many have found awesome.  Perhaps I am jaded, this is far from my first time in a cave or on a jungle walk.

After the cave we dined at Los Secretos, hanging just long enough to eat and headed off to Clyde and Verne's.  In one of his many former lives Clyde was a professional photographer.  We went through a large stack of nudes, product shots and many pictures of people parachuting and flying hot air balloons.  Clyde was formerly a jump instructor, free base jump instructor and designed parachutes, hang gliders and repaired hot air balloons.  More pictures, race cars Clyde had designed and built, nature shots, Lake  Powell, desert scenes.  

The girls whipped out a large batch of caramel, white chocolate and chocolate chip cookies and we had a wonderful Chinese salad.   Clyde invited us to go snorkeling tomorrow.  I have much to do, I am sure he won't object to taking these woman by himself.

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